Remy’s 2023 Travel Notebook

Where to start… I took a break from writing the blog for a couple days because it’s all been so overwhelming. Just today I started writing down my thoughts and experiences of the last few days.

In Lavacolla, we stayed about 11 or 12 km from the endpoint of the Camino. On Sunday morning, we woke up at 6:00 to start and arrive early. We had a feeling Sunday in the Santiago pilgrim’s office would be busy. We walked through the dark. I felt turned around, probably because of the dark and fog but also partly due to the emotions and excitement clouding my head! It reminded me of skiing down a mountain in a white-out, when you can hardly tell which way is up and down anymore.

We took a break at a nice cafe – a break that would be our last before reaching Santiago. So many “lasts” would come in the next day that I wouldn’t realize until they happened. Walking down a path we saw the glow of Santiago in the distance… our first sign of the city.

Here and there our group of 9 would get separated by a few minutes and those in the front would hear shouting from those in the back. We wanted to stay together but had drifted apart in our pace over the last few days as people dealt with injuries and soreness. It was important that we reached Santiago together.

When coming in to the city, I have to say it didn’t feel any different from other cities or towns. It was more the company and memories made behind us that made the last walk special. As we walked into the town and passed the “Santiago” signs, anticipation grew. We started walking in the old town and suddenly had our first view of the top of the cathedral.

We continued, and without any conscious thought, our hands flew together as we realized the end was within 1 kilometer.

A few moments later we walked through the tunnel and saw the cobblestone square open up in front of us. In the moment, It didn’t really hit me that this was the end. We all yelled and raised our arms in sync, and were cheered by the approximately 25 people in the massive square at 9 am. Two by two we embraced each other, many in tears. We took all kinds of pictures for the next half hour and sat in the back of the square waiting for other groups of pilgrims, and the sun, to invade the square.

A night of fiesta ensued. First, my dad and I did some resting, shopping and eating in the town. I found myself a ring that I love, and we had a tapas lunch with some of Galicia’s local wine variety, Albariño. It’s certainly one of the best I’ve had in Spain.

The next morning, I planned to stay in Santiago for maybe a few nights to wait for friends that I had separated from. I think there are at least 10 who will arrive between 2 and 6 days after me. I was also planning to potentially walk to Finisterre. When I reached Santiago I realized I felt quite fulfilled with what I had done, and didn’t have the desire to continue walking. I went against my plans when Xavi told me he was renting a car and could take me to Finisterre where the rest of the group had taken a bus a few hours prior. I thought I could break up my time in Santiago a bit and join them. I went to Cabo Finisterre, aka the end of the world, aka fin del mundo, for one night. Little did I understand when I made that decision, that I was grabbing onto my friends for one last moment together.

Right now, my new plans are as follows (I’m noting them down to remember how they evolve as time goes on):

• Stay in Santiago for 3 more nights to await all my friends.
• Go to Finisterre (again) and Muxia for 3 or 4 nights. Maybe visit other coastal towns? Enjoy the beaches, seafood, serenity and good weather.
• Return to Santiago and take a bus (or fly?) to Porto for a few days.
• Fly to England and drive around the UK for 10-14 days. Maybe a detour in Switzerland depending on timing.
• Fly home to California in the second half of September.

As I reflect on my experience I am thinking about many things. My friend Charlie has a welcomed habit of asking introspective and thought provoking questions. As I walked with him for the last few minutes in Santiago before I would say goodbye to him and his wife, he asked me “and what do you think, being here in Santiago with so many people?” I paused for a moment to think. “I actually don’t mind it. I think it’s nice to see everyone having a good time and enjoying themselves. But I also find it sad to walk past so many people unable to get to know them, ask their name, or learn about their lives the way we did on the Camino.” The Camino brought to the forefront parts of humanity I hope everyone can seek in an often hectic daily life. The parts that include more listening to understand than listening to speak. More giving than receiving. More accepting than judging. And of course, more walking than running.

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On the 22nd I came back to Santiago after my one night in Cabo Finisterre with the group. Many of the friends have left for home and some will continue walking on the Camino portugues. Lots of “see you later”s have been said. I am now staying in a huge monastery 0.5 miles from the city center. I had to walk about 5 minutes from the entrance to my room. I have a private room with a bed, sink, window, and a desk. My afternoon nap was one of the most peaceful I’ve ever had.

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There will be more, but maybe not every day for a little while! If you’re still reading, thank you for being here for my journey ❤️