Remy’s 2023 Travel Notebook

Today came a point to make a difficult decision. Over the first 2 days of my Camino, I made multiple very good friends. The group had been in a routine for multiple weeks, always walking together, and they took me in from my first day. Some of the group members had expressed the difficulty of their routine being that they walk longer distances than most (35 km yesterday and up to 39 today), which means they have to leave many friends behind. It was only 10km from our starting point to Pamplona. I have been evaluating what I want out of my Camino, trying to balance my impulse to walk far and fast with the desire to savor every moment, sight and interaction.

I walked with The Group to Pamplona, had some breakfast in the city, and then decided I would stay there. We said our “see you later” and “Buen Camino”, and I watched as the group of 5 (Daniel, Charlie, Cami, Michaela, and Lola) walked down a small alley to get back on The Way. Of course, we exchanged phone numbers and told each other we will likely meet again. I had a pretty immediate feeling of worry that I was letting this amazing group slip through my fingers. I remind myself of the true essence of the Camino and that friends and people will come and go, but I will always have myself. It’s most important that I do as I feel, and Pamplona will likely not be a place I visit many more times in my life.

Thank you Charlie, Cami, and Daniel for making 2 days feel like 2 months.

I reached the albergue in Pamplona after exploring for a few hours. I See many familiar faces very quickly, including Isabelle, Louie (French man I walked and talked with for at least an hour), and another couple I sat next to during communal dinner in Roncesvalles. We exchange greetings and talk while showering, resting, and doing laundry in the backyard of the albergue.

Isabelle and I take on Pamplona for an afternoon of sightseeing. I got a traditional ham and cheese sandwich which Pamplona is known for. We explore the town square, narrow streets and bakeries. The city has a charm like no other and I am thankful I slowed down to spend the night.

We continue to the albergue to rest and get ready for a “pilgrim mass” at 18:30. I play my ukelele in the courtyard of the albergue with Isabelle and Louie, who sing along to various American songs and impress me greatly. They think it’s the coolest thing to hear a ukelele and I feel overjoyed that this wholesome moment is what they hoped to have in their Camino.

We continue to our walking tour of the old town in Pamplona including where the bulls run, the town hall, and the cathedral. After, we attend a mass in the cathedral (all in Spanish so I think of it as more of a language lesson). We get a small dinner at a bar in the town square and I had the best spinach and cheese pastry.

After this, more albergue relax time and I go ahead to do some stretching and exercises in the courtyard. I get to talking with Jude from England and we decide to get a drink at 9.30. After all, we are in Pamplona on a Friday night, arguably the best place to be in Spain at the best time. Now it’s midnight and I will leave the details for a future day. Buenos Dias at 6:00 and Buen Camino at 7:00.