Remy’s 2023 Travel Notebook

(No, mom … it’s not a hospital.)

“Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you discover that the road opens your eyes to the unseen”

One of the biggest reasons I am here on the Camino. Things that were once unseen to my eyes can be discovered when my legs carry me to them. I am short for words that could properly describe my time on the Camino so far. Too many emotions for the heart to hang. I grapple with the idea of putting down any notes or posts at all, with fear that I will misrepresent what I have truly seen and felt. Yet, I am still inspired by the idea of writing a blog (and maybe someday a book) that could encourage anyone who reads it to seek the same discovery.

Today was a a trip in itself. I witnessed a lot. Joy, tragedy, pain, comraderie, wisdom, art, destruction. Of course the sweltering heat and some beautiful (plus some not so beautiful) sights. Way too many things for a single day.

I started out my day with my fellow musician friend Geonne. She and I stuck together for a number of days and shared many interesting conversations on the trail and in albergues about religion, music, relationship struggles, family, and more. She has been writing songs about the Camino along the way. Songs and musical talent that you can only believe when you hear it for yourself. Thank you Geonne for sharing your art!

There was lots of not pretty city walking today, and quite a bit along the highways. I forgot to take pictures of those parts… but we would occasionally go off trail to the country roads and find our own trails.

Slowly but steadily through the morning we picked up people we knew from previous days (or even weeks ago) to walk with. One is Sabrina from Connecticut, and the other is Leon from Sydney. I met Leon in passing almost 10 days ago when I was speeding through logroño walking 55km. I was happy to come across him on the trail and get a chance to talk to him in a deeper way. I came to find he is here trying desperately to find his way out of a dark hole after his daughter passed away. We shed a tear walking side by side along the highway in a moment of reflection.

After taking a break at the second bar in the next town (the first is always “the hook”), I asked the whole group if I could make a reservation for us at the albergue at the 35km point. They agreed and I called to get us our bunk beds. After a wrong turn, lots of pretty side roads, some conversations and lots of sun on our calves we arrived to the city of Hospital de Orbigo. No, it is not a hospital… I hope I don’t scare anyone with the title of this post!

The town is quite picturesque. It is different than most other towns that we have visited. It almost seems like it has a moorish influence in the architecture style.

Before we got to the town, we passed a farm where we saw lots of sheep. They were in quite a crowded enclosure. I noticed that and thought it was a bit cruel, not saying anything at the moment. There are fences keeping the sheep in a barn. We are just passing as a friend notices a big herding dog, mangled and wrapped around and hanging from one of the gates, chained on a very short line. I panic. The dog has clearly been baking in the sun for hours, no water or shade in sight. He must have tried to escape through the gate, but was hung at the neck by his short line and the gate. I see he is still breathing. I throw my bag down and go over to him, lifting his head up to release the chain. He is hanging like a rag on the gate and I put his lower half down to the ground. The friends rush to the stream behind the farmhouse to fill up water to try to comfort and revive him. He responded to the water briefly, but he was so hot and weak. I fill up a pale that was sitting nearby and splash his body while the others prop a table to get him in the shade. At this point he took his last breath and we couldn’t do anything more. It was a sad way to end the walk. I wish I was there a couple hours earlier.

The dog must have been chained there by the same farmer who crowded 100 sheep in 10 square meters. Maybe it wasn’t our place to try and save him but it was what I felt like doing at the time. Not very kind of the farmer, and quite a shame. There was another dog chained to a tree. at least he was in the shade. I fill up the pale, bring it over to him, pick myself up, and walk into town.

The albergue today was filled with art that was painted by pilgrims. They have canvases, paint and brushes that are supplied to every visitor.

We showered, did laundry, went shopping and cooked a meal. We shared some drinks, food and conversations with 10 pilgrims from around the world. Here is some of my company of the evening:

What a day. Now bedtime. I have approximately 9 days until Santiago and 6 days until my dad arrives. I am thinking about extending my walk. Not sure where yet, but I am not done walking. Lucky me I will wake up in 5.5 hours and do it again! I have no idea what tomorrow will be like but my mind and eyes are open. Buen Camino!